We have been in London for a few weeks now, and everywhere the Christmas season celebrations are in full force. Incidentally, so are my final essays. Right now I ought to be writing my research paper, but I decided instead to take a glance back at some of my favorite moments of my time in London and share them with you. So grab a cup of something hot and let’s run off to a world of carols in the square and cold winter nights.
The London Eye
By far my favorite memory happened on our first full day in London. To set the tone for the month ahead, we took the Underground to Waterloo Station, crossed the street to the banks of the Thames, and rode the London Eye!
We chose tickets that allowed us to go during the sunset hour, so we could see the skyline light up. It was a clear evening, and at the height of the Eye, we had a panoramic skyline view of the city.
We could see as far southwest as the great spire of Saint Paul’s, and in the other direction, we had a perfect view of Westminster, the Houses of Parliament, and the gardens around Buckingham. I remember being sixteen and dreaming of riding the London Eye when I visited England, so for me, that moment was a literal dream come true.
Christmas Markets
One of the most magical seasonal festivities I have yet encountered is the infamous “Christmas market,” which, to Californians like me, might best be described as a farmer’s market with a Christmas theme. There are dozens of them across London, from the bustling amusement park of Hyde Park Winter Wonderland to the enchanting cozy glow of Embankment on the waterfront of the Thames.
The markets are best enjoyed with a cup of something hot—maybe mulled wine or hot chocolate—and then spent wandering through the vendors. The booths are decorated in string lights and garlands of pine, and they sell everything from ornaments to scarves (good for some last-minute gift shopping). Sometimes there are carousels or other such rides, and usually you can follow the smell of woodsmoke to the crackling campfires and sit for a while to enjoy the ambiance.
Covent Garden
We actually stumbled upon Covent Garden entirely on accident, but take one look at these pictures and you’ll know why we stuck around. The place was bedecked with festivity!
You can usually always find buskers around in Covent Garden—we were blessed to chance upon a string quartet. There are so many cafes and restaurants tucked away in there, it’s the perfect place to grab a bite to eat or meet a friend for coffee.
Ice Skating
Let’s get one thing straight: I have never gone ice skating in my life. To celebrate Thanksgiving, the eighteen of us on the program met at Somerset House to ice skate on their open-air rink—for many, myself included, it was the first time ever. I didn’t leave the rail for most the time, but you know what? It was the most fun I’ve had in ages. Everyone around me was whizzing and laughing and slipping and cavorting and spinning, and it all felt like a magical evening in Hogsmeade.
“A Christmas Carol”
Last weekend we took a coach to Stratford-Upon-Avon, where we saw a performance of Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol” at the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. The inclusion of Dickens as a character was similar to the movie “The Man Who Invented Christmas” (which is a jolly brilliant Christmas movie, by the way). Since we have been studying the works of Dickens for four months, it was such a grand time to watch Dickens and his best friend, John Forster, collaborate together and watch the story of Scrooge unfold.
We’ve been to a lot of plays this semester—a lot—but this one stole my heart right away. I’ve never felt such a high-energy response to a play as I did in that crowd. You leave feeling full of merriment and joy, ready to hug random strangers and yell, “God bless us, every one!” in the streets. At any rate, there’s a reason this story is a classic.
England’s Best Mug of Hot Chocolate
While we’re on the subject of my day trip to Stratford-Upon-Avon, let me tell you about the world’s best cup of hot chocolate that I have ever found upon the surface of God’s good earth.
While my best friend and I wandered the crisp cold streets, our breath frosting the air, we stumbled upon the glowing windows of a charming little pub. Or at least, we thought it was a pub. Turns out, it was a tea room and cafe, which is infinitely more charming, and so we went inside to warm ourselves. The rooms were small but cozy, with all the qualities of a proper English pub. In every room, comfy seats were arranged around cheerful crackling fireplaces, all inviting us to sit down and warm our cold tired selves. The hearths were decorated with garlands of holly, red ribbons, and general sparklyness.
This would have been enough, but for the hot chocolate. After we had found an upstairs room all to our own, I grabbed my coin purse and navigated downstairs to order a hot chocolate from the till.
“What size?” asked the barista.
“Hmm? Oh. Large, please.” (As I turned away to gaze at the display of cakes and delicacies, I glimpsed her pick up the whipped cream canister and tell the other barista. “I’m ready.”)
A moment later, when I glanced back, there upon the till was the largest cup of hot chocolate I have ever seen. It was easily the size of my head. And they had piled upon it an abundance of whipped cream and layered the saucer with little pink and white marshmallows. I couldn’t stop laughing for five minutes.
If you ever stumble upon Stratford-Upon-Avon in Christmastime, do yourself a kindness and go to Hobson’s Patisserie for a large hot chocolate.
The Hunt for London’s Best Christmas Lights
Regent’s Street, just off from Oxford Street, has some of the prettiest Christmas lights I’ve ever seen in my life. Also, you will find the world’s classiest Apple store (there are trees inside!) and some pretty fantabulous window displays.
Harley’s toy shoppe drew us in, and we took selfies with a stormtrooper and nearly got into a magic duel with a stranger. It was a good time.
Not far away, the Carnaby lights are decorated with neon song lyrics up and down the street. In a nutshell, if you’re looking for bedazzling Christmas vibes, this part of town is worth the wander.
Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason
Our very last free day in London, my friends and I dressed to the nines and went for afternoon tea in the Diamond Jubilee Tea Room—another highlight, since the entire store was equally dressed to the nines in Christmas decorations. An elegant afternoon tea, followed by an evening of ice skating with friends, made the last day in London one of my favorites.
All of these moments were a highlight, but none have been as wonderful as the thousands of little moments between them. I love walking down the enchanting winter streets with lights all aglow around me. I love catching little snippets of conversation as I pass strangers on the street. I love walking on a bridge across the River Thames, feeling the brisk night wind in my face.
I love sitting in the top of a double-decker bus, watching the world go by outside. I love returning home down lamplit streets, and the feeling of walking inside and warmth flooding me over as I take off my coat and gloves. I love sipping from a cup of something hot, the feeling of being surrounded by people I love, and knowing that for this moment, I am living my dream.
To me, this is the feeling of Christmastime. Wherever you are, I hope you feel it too.
Wishing you a merry Christmas,
<3 Olivia Grace
